Subject: Questions on Digiscoping [Print This Page] Author: puppymic Time: 21/01/2007 23:50
I don't understand? I am using STS80HD + Olympus C7070WZ, even though the object is quite close, but I cannot take such a sharp photo, whether I have to change any setting in my camera?
one Black-capped Kingfisher taken in Tsim Biu Tsui today:
Could someone please tell me why I cannot see my picture in my post Author: tbob Time: 22/01/2007 05:16
I am not sure what you did wrong, but on your Photobucket web page it said use this IMG code for forums & bulliten boards
Author: tbob Time: 22/01/2007 05:25
Mandy,
I am sure that Neil will get back to you with some tips on how to improve your shots. He has the same setup as you and has taken some stunning shots.
My only help at the moment is to suggest that if you are using the zomm 20-60 x eyepiece, make sure you are not going any tighter than 30x on the eyepiece.
Neil will give you further advise on camera setting etc
Cheers
Bob Author: fneil Time: 22/01/2007 06:47
Mandy,
I couldn't see the EXIF info on your two photos but I looked at them in Photoshop CS2.
Due to the low and hazy light at the moment you should increase the Contrast and Sharpening Settings in the Camera . You could do it in your software when you get home. There is detail in your photos. I just ran Auto Contrast and did an Unsharp Mask pass on them. I would suggest that you do an Unsharp Mask sharpening as a first step on the original file and then again after downsizing for email.
Because of the low light at the moment I'm trying to take my photos from close distance (less than 10 metres ) and I haven't been out to Mai Po for 10 days.
If you could let me know your EXIF info I could give some more advice.
I hope this helps, Neil.
ps I would also run a noise filter over the image during processing.
pps the little bird is a Siberian Stonechat
I was there in the outing as well. It was hazy with very soft and flat light yesterday. Photo taken under this condition is soft, it is normal. In fact, the result is acceptable. If it was sunny, your Kingfisher photo is a masterpiece. Try again next time at bright sunlight.
One more point, try not to use the aperture at widest open. If the lens is f2.8, try to step down to f 4, etc. There is a compromise between aperture and shutter speed. Lower the speed, smaller the aperture, sharper the image,however, the more chance you get a blurred image due to vibration.
Wing
FRPS Author: puppymic Time: 23/01/2007 00:34
Dear all
Thank you very much for your kind advices.
Mandy Author: puppymic Time: 11/02/2007 19:07
Chak Gor
Thank you for your kind advices and I have learnt a lot today.
Although I have taken quite many pictures but I have deleted most of them, following are two better pictures (with further editing by software).
(1) Northern Shoveler (NSW 11/2/2007)
(2) Great Cormorant (NSW 11/2/2007)
Mandy Author: fneil Time: 11/02/2007 19:30
Mandy,
The light in the afternoons has been better than the mornings recently and a good place to pratice is kowloon Park duck ponds. I like it there from 3 - 4 pm. Neil. Author: cwchan Time: 11/02/2007 20:52
Mandy,
The following is my work using your scope (set at 30X (20-60x zoom eyepiece)).
Nikon 8400
17.5mm
1/185 f6.
I have no experience on why only the last 1/5 zoom of my DC can give me an image without noticable dark corners. It will not happen at my 30X eyepiece. Can any experienced users (Neil, Bob, and others) give me some advice on the setting of the zoom eyepiece? Is it a reason due to small Eye Relief in zoom eyepiece ?
Mandy,
Yes. The Eye Relief of the zoom gets worse as you zoom so you would have to zoom the camera lens a lot ( or move the camera closer ) to reduce the vignetting.
I wonder whether the DCA fixed would work on the zoom as it might allow you to get the lenses closer together. Maybe Bob could test this out?
The other alternative is to have someone cut down the DCA by about 5 mm. I haven't heard of anyone doing this but it would be interesting to try.
Could you let us know your Exif information and the distance and time of day you are taking your photos? Neil. Author: tbob Time: 11/02/2007 21:33
Mandy,
Using the Nikon 8400 and 20-60x eyepiece on the Swarovski 80HD scope produce some excellent quality results, as attached. Kowloon Park is an excellent place to practise with your camera. Remember to try and stay around the 30x zoom setting on your eyepiece. Focus distance also has an effect on the ammount of vignetting you get, but you can always crop this out with your software program
Bob
PS: All of these shots were taken with the zoom eyepiece
Mandy ,
Now Bob is putting pressure on all of us with these photos. He forgot to mention that he gets up at 5.30 am in the middle of summer on the finest days of the year to get to Kowloon Park before anyone else.
Neil. Author: tbob Time: 11/02/2007 22:05
Mandy, This is a repost of your Kingfisher shot, I hope you don't mind. Practice makes perfect, I have a long way to go but in the 10 months of digiscoping I am really enjoying it
EXIF for 1st photo:
[Camera]
Exposure Time = 1/320"
F Number = F4.5
Exposure Program = Aperture priority
ISO Speed Ratings = 200
Exif Version = Version 2.21
Date Time Original = 2007-02-12 15:08:08
Date Time Digitized = 2007-02-12 15:08:08
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F2.83
Metering Mode = MultiSpot
Light Source = Fine weather
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 19.8mm
Maker Note = 1198 Byte
User Comment =
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 3072
Exif Image Height = 2304
File Source = DSC
Scene Type = A directly photographed image
Custom Rendered = Normal process
Exposure Mode = Auto exposure
White Balance = Manual white balance
Digital Zoom Ratio =
Scene Capture Type = Normal
Gain Control = High gain up
Contrast = Normal
Saturation = Normal
Sharpness = Normal
EXIF for 2nd photo:
[Camera]
Exposure Time = 1/200"
F Number = F4.5
Exposure Program = Aperture priority
ISO Speed Ratings = 200
Exif Version = Version 2.21
Date Time Original = 2007-02-12 14:01:03
Date Time Digitized = 2007-02-12 14:01:03
Exposure Bias Value = ±0EV
Max Aperture Value = F2.83
Metering Mode = MultiSpot
Light Source = Fine weather
Flash = Flash did not fire, compulsory flash mode
Focal Length = 17mm
Maker Note = 1198 Byte
User Comment =
Flashpix Version = Version 1.0
Color Space = sRGB
Exif Image Width = 3072
Exif Image Height = 2304
File Source = DSC
Scene Type = A directly photographed image
Custom Rendered = Normal process
Exposure Mode = Auto exposure
White Balance = Manual white balance
Digital Zoom Ratio =
Scene Capture Type = Normal
Gain Control = High gain up
Contrast = Normal
Saturation = Normal
Sharpness = Normal
Thank you all of you to share the experience.
Mandy Author: puppymic Time: 11/02/2007 22:13
forgot to quote the camera: Olympus C7070 Author: tbob Time: 11/02/2007 22:15
Mandy,
Can you remember if there was any reason why the EXIF should mention
Gain Control = High gain up
You were shooting at ISO 100 & 200, .
Try changing the gain control to low or normal
Bob
Neil has a 7070 so he should be able to give you all the settings Author: puppymic Time: 11/02/2007 22:33
There are two possible reasons for the vignetting:
(1) I haven't remove the rubber ring of eyepiece.
(2) my adaptor for the C7070 is not perfectly fit, I am using Raynox RT5248B (there is 4mm space between the len and the fringe of adaptor)
Mandy Author: tbob Time: 11/02/2007 22:34
Mandy,
Although I mentioned earlier that it is better to stay around the 30x setting on your eyepiece, this shot which is full frame was taken on my 1st digiscoping day at Mai Po on the 13th April 2006 and the eyepiece was set at 60x
Mandy,
Try it without the rubber eyepiece. I had the 7070wz out for some exercise this week and I noticed that I was using it at about half zoom on the 45x eyepiece. I suggest that you use it around that and use iso 100. If the light levels are low use the remote or Self Timer.
This is an average image from this week . Taken about 9.00 am at 25 metres. Neil.
ps I also set the camera with -0.7 exposure compensation normally , but for the mynas around -1.0 as they are darker ( I use Spot Metering )